Pool owner – My Pool & Spa

A swimming pool can be a source of joy for anyone who takes the plunge.

Whether you are splashing with the children, relaxing with your partner or hosting a party with your friends, there is never a dull day for a pool owner. To keep your water clean, safe and sparkling, you need a regular treatment regime that includes balancing and disinfecting the water.

How To Open Your Pool?
Everyone has their own method of opening their pool for the season.

We are great believers in “if it is not broke do not try to fix it” but we always like to keep customers informed of the best products that could help support your routine.

Here are our steps:
1. Remove and clean the Cover
  - Always allow the cover to dry before storing it for the season
2. Check the water level
  - If low (below the skimmer) top it up
  - Keep an eye on your water level over the coming day to ensure it is correct
3. Remove any visible leaves and debris
  - Set filter to waste and consistently check strainer basket whilst removing any visible debris
4. Filter check
  - Clean or replace as required
5. Prepare pool
  - Replace skimmer basket
  - Reconnect pipework
  - Check all seals
  - Select correct setting on your filter
  - Prime your pump if required
  - Start the pump to get water circulating
6. Shock your pool water
  - We recommend Rapid Shock to thoroughly disinfect your pool water
    
    If your pool has algae?
i. Brush algae from pool surfaces

ii. Add Blue Horizons Rapid Liquid Flock or Blue Horizons Granular Floc
1. - After 24 hours the water will clear and white deposits will be seen at the bottom of the pool
    
    Raise the water level as high as possible and unpack your pool vacuum
    
    Set your filter to waste, making sure it is working efficiently causing little disruption to the white deposits while you vacuum the pool.
    
    We recommend the addition of ClearFAST Aqua Sachet at this stage to support the process
    
    Backwash as required during this process
    
    This process can take a few days………..
2. Test and balance your pool
  - Maintaining balanced pool water is a critical step to safe, inviting and clear water
  - We recommend testing the phosphate level at this stage
3. Prepare your pool resources for the season
  - Chemicals
i.      Rapid Shock

                                                             ii.      pH –

                                                           iii.      pH +

                                                           iv.      TA Raiser

                                                             v.      Calcium Hardness Raiser

                                                           vi.      Algae Controller

                                                          vii.      Ultimate Phos Granules
1. - Clean and service your pool equipment
i.      Telescopic pole

ii.      Skimmer net

                                                           iii.      Vacuum

                                                           iv.      Pool brush

9.       Check and finalise pool plant settings
1. - Filter
  - Airflow
10. Enjoy

For more help and guidance on opening your pool contact your local dealer here.

How Do I Deal With Algae Growth?
Algae are a diverse group of aquatic organisms that can photosynthesise, whereby they are able to use sunlight to generate energy to allow them to grow and multiply, which they do rapidly. Given that they are so small they are not visible to the naked eye until such time that they have multiplied in large numbers.

Recovering an algae infested pool can be a lengthy and costly exercise, hence why prevention is better than cure.

There are various factors surrounding algae that pool owners need to be aware of and be able to control to ensure that algae do not become a problem.

To prevent algae the pool system needs to be performing correctly. This can be broken down into the following areas:

Correct water balance

If a pool water is correctly balanced i.e., the total alkalinity, calcium hardness, pH and TDS (total dissolved solids) levels are maintained at the correct levels, at all times, then the sanitising agent will be able to work at its optimum efficacy. If the sanitiser levels are always maintained, then algae will not be able to spawn and multiply.

Balanced water is defined as water that is neither scale forming nor corrosive and can be determined by measuring the above parameters, together with temperature and can be calculated using the Langelier Saturation Index.

Filtration and Circulation

Filters should be set to constantly circulate the water within the pool and to flow over the sanitising chemical tablets or accept it if it is automatically injected as a liquid. That way the sanitising agent will constantly be added to the water.

A well-maintained filter with the correct amount of clean media, be that either sand or glass, or in some cases a cartridge filter element, is an essential part of the system that needs to be monitored and maintained.

Regular backwashing of a typical sand or glass media filter is essential to ensure that any debris trapped between the grains is removed and sent to waste.

If left without being backwashed a filter becomes clogged and inefficient, water will track through the media taking the line of least resistance and particles will pass through without being filtered and biofouling is likely to occur.

Seasonal cleaning of filter media is also an option, to remove any oils and greases that are trapped within the filter media and periodic changing of sand media is advisable.

Sanitising the water

Always ensuring that the required level of sanitising agent is available within the pool water will prevent algae from forming.

This can be achieved by regularly adding the sanitising agent either manually by placing a chlorine tablet into a skimmer or by using a floating dispenser, in-line or off-line erosion feeder, or an automatic dosing system that constantly monitors and controls chlorine sanitiser and pH levels.

Pool maintenance

Regular pool vacuuming and brushing of the walls will help to keep the internal pool finishes clean and clear from any potential algae build up.

Flocculation

Using a flocculation agent as part of the regular maintenance regime will help to keep water crystal clear and will make it easier to spot any potential problem areas within a pool. This is typically in corners where there is little movement of water or in step areas where the steps are close to the surface and face direct sunlight.

If all of the above are in place, then that is a good starting point.

To help back up all of the above, the use of a Blue Horizons algaecide is an important consideration for the trouble-free running of the pool.

Recovering an Algae Infested Pool

If you are unfortunate enough to suffer from the early signs of an algae attack, green patches on walls / in the corners of the pool or the water has started to take on a green tinge but remains relatively clear then this recovery routine should help when you have a conventional, well maintained sand filter.
1. Check the pH, it is not unusual for algae infested pools to have a high pH level – if this is the case lower the pH as chlorine becomes less effective as the pH levels increase.
2. Check the sanitiser level, if it is zero it is quite likely that the water will have a chlorine demand, which may take a while to satisfy. It is unlikely that you will get rid of the algae infestation until the chlorine demand is satisfied. Use Blue Horizons Rapid Shock chlorine to quickly increase the chlorine level so that the algae can be killed. When it is killed it will fall to the pool floor. Thoroughly brush the pool walls and floor so that the algae is in suspension and the chlorine can kill it.
Allow the debris to settle
1. Vacuum pool floor with the multiport valve in the waste position, this may be difficult as you might not be able to see the vacuum head clearly but try and do it systematically remembering to keep an eye on the water level, as by vacuuming to waste the water level in the pool is going to drop – so you will need to work quite quickly. This will remove the dead algae spores that have fallen to the pool floor.
You may wish to top up the pool with a hose pipe prior to starting to compensate for the water that will be sent to waste.
1. After vacuuming put the multiport valve in the usual filtration position and keep the pump running 24 hours per day until the pool has cleared. It may be necessary to assist the filter by using an additional clarifier, such as the Blue Horizons Aqua Sparkle Tablets or a ClearFAST Aqua Sachet.
2. Apply Blue Horizons AlgiMAX Eliminator or Ultimate Algaecide Concentrate as indicated on the product label. This will support the sanitiser and act as another algae killing product to help speed up the pool recovery time and to help prevent the algae from returning.
3. Test the pH level regularly and maintain this within the range of 7.2 to 7.6, the lower the better to maximise the efficacy of the sanitiser (the lower the pH the more efficient the sanitiser is)
4. Maintain the sanitiser between 1.0 and 3.0 mg/l (ppm) to ensure safe, healthy and clean water.
5. Once the pool is crystal clear and clean then continue with the regular backwashing, vacuuming and testing routine. 24 hr filtration is always recommended.
How to prevent a pool from turning green

Algae needs food to survive and to multiply. Food for algae comes in the form of phosphates. There are phosphates in everything that ultimately goes into pool water. They are in:
- Some chemicals
- Dust in the atmosphere
- Insects
- Pollen
- The contaminants from bathers:
                Sweat

                Cosmetics (fake tan, moisturisers, hair gel)

                Suntan oils and creams
- Detergents from swimming costumes
- Leaves from trees
- Rainwater
- Fresh water
- Fertiliser products
Simply put phosphates are compounds containing phosphorus.

High levels of phosphates can, in certain conditions such as bright warm sunny summer days, support algae growth at a greater rate than chlorine can manage.

To help back up your algaecide throughout the swimming season the phosphate levels can be tested and maintained at a level that will not encourage algae growth.

Phosphate levels can be lowered using either Blue Horizons Ultimate Phos Granules or Concentrated Phos Away.

By using an algaecide and keeping the phosphate levels at or lower than 0.25mg/l (ppm) then you will greatly reduce the chance of having any green water problems.

There are various Blue Horizons Algaecides that we recommend:
- Kleen Pool Algaecide
- Blue Horizon Summerclear
- Blue Horizons Algae Controller
- Blue Horizons AlgiMAX Eliminator
- Blue Horizons Ultimate Algicide Concentrate

What do I Do If I Have Oils Floating On The Surface Of My Pool Water?
When you swim in your pool, if there are any traces of cosmetics, body moisturisers, massage oils, fake tan, hair gel or any similar products on your body then they will transfer into the water.

When this happens the products rise to the surface and float on the water, manifesting themselves as an oily sheen that is not only unsightly but will also have an adverse effect on the overall water quality.

Should you experience this then there are a number of steps that will need to be taken.

Firstly how to deal with the oily sheen on the surface of the water.

To remove this will require the addition of Gold Horizons Spa & Pool Perfect.

This is a speciality product that is designed to naturally biodegrade body oils and cosmetics that have been transferred into the water that can be used in both spas and pools.

When using the product, it is important to ensure that normal levels of sanitiser are present. High levels of either chlorine or bromine can render the active element of the product ineffective and the oils will not be biodegraded.

In addition to the cosmetics that can be introduced into the water, some automatic pool covers and counter current swim units use hydraulic motors to drive them. It has been known for the hoses on these motors when they are aged, or installed incorrectly, to leak hydraulic oil into the pool.

Pool and spa perfect is the product that will cure the problem.

In the case of a portable spa, hot tub and a pool, the oils will also leave a residue around the waterline so it will be important to use the necessary cleaner to remove this so that it does not provide a food source for bacteria to colonise.

For Pools this will be:
- Blue Horizons Waterline Cleaning Paste
A Highly effective cleaning paste that will help to remove grease and dirt and which will promote a bacteria free surface.

Once the oils have been removed from the surface of the pool water and the waterline, we would recommend that the filter is treated with:
- Blue Horizons Filter Cleaner – This easy to apply liquid will remove greases and oils from filter media to rapidly restore filter efficiency.
To avoid any of the above the answer would be to shower thoroughly before entering the water to remove any such products to prevent them from entering the water.

Shock Dose A Pool – How Much To Add?
From time to time it will be necessary to give the pool water a shock dose, either as part of a routine maintenance regime (winter closing or summer opening) or just after a period of heavy use one weekend when family and friends have been in and out of the water all day

It is important to know how to do this accurately so that you do not waste chemicals and create unnecessarily high chlorine levels.

There are a few pieces of information that are required to allow us to shock dose accurately.
1. Know the pool water volume of water in Litres /m³ V
For instance, if the pool is 12m long x 4.5 m wide and is 1.1m deep at the shallow end and 2.4m deep at the deep end, we calculate the volume like this:
- Length x Width x Average Depth
- 12m x 4.5m x 1.75m = 94.5m³
(Average depth = Shallow depth (1.1m) + deep end depth (2.4m) =3.5m ÷2 = 1.75m)

2. Know what product is being used and its strength: – CL
- Granular Shock = 65% (0.65)
- Rapid Shock = 76% (0.72)
- Sodium Hypochlorite = varies 10/11% & 14/15% (0.10 / 0.14)
4. Know what chlorine level you are looking to achieve: ppm
- 10ppm for winter closing
- 5ppm for a regular shock dose
Example 1.

How to calculate the amount A of granular shock product to add to the pool:

The calculation is:

So, for the pool volume from above, V = 94.5m³

Let’s say we want to shock the pool to 10ppm, ppm = 10

Let’s use granular Rapid Shock at 76% strength, CL = 0.76

1.24 kg of rapid shock is required to get that pool to 10ppm for a shock dose.

Example 2.

How to calculate the amount A of liquid shock product (liquid chlorine or sodium hypochlorite) to add to the pool:

The calculation formula is the same:

So, this pool is smaller, say V = 65m³

Let’s say we want to shock the pool to 5ppm, ppm = 5

Let’s use 10/11% liquid chlorine, CL = 0.10

3.25 litres of 10/11%liquid chlorine is required to get this pool to 5ppm for a shock dose.

When handling chemicals, it is important that the correct safety precautions are taken to prevent contact with the skin and eyes. Always use the appropriate PPE (personal protective equipment)

Once we have added the chemicals to the water it is advisable to test the water after 4 to 6 hours to check and see that the level has been achieved.

If the level is at, or very close to where we expect it to be then that is good, however of the level is much lower than we expected it to be then this is a sign that the chemical has been used up by bacteria in the water and that it may be necessary to carry out another top up dose to overcome the bacteria.

Once the desired chlorine level is achieved and remains stable, then this is an indication that the shock treatment has been successful.

How Do I Deal with a Dirty/Overused Filter?
It is true to say that almost every domestic swimming pool, in the UK will have a filter vessel with sand media, although some may have glass.

Swimming pool filter sand is a specific type, it is referred to as 16/30 grade silica sand. It comes from ground quartz, which creates sharp silica grains with jagged edges excellent for trapping particulates from passing water.

Silica sand is mined product as opposed to being manufactured.

Under a microscope the sand looks like a pile of bricks, with cavities between the bricks. These cavities in the sand filter are where particles are trapped.

If the filter is not operating efficiently then this could contribute to cloudy water.

How does a sand filter work?

Water is passed, under pressure from the pump, into the top if the filter vessel and travels down through the sand. As it travels down the sand removes any particles and the water comes out clear and returns to the pool, usually via a heater of some sort.

As the sand becomes blocked with particles the water pressure above the sand increases and is displayed on a pressure gauge. When this pressure gauge reads high, that indicates that it is time to clean, or backwash the filter.

Backwashing simply reverses the flow of water so that it is pumped up through the sand. This fluidises the sand bed, and the trapped particles are releases. The multiport valve (pictured right) allows this process to be easily carried out and has present positions for filter, backwash, rinse, waste, recirc and closed.

In the backwash position the water passes from the filter direct to the drain.

During the backwash, the water from the filter can be observed in a small bowl. The water will be cloudy after a few seconds then will begin to clear after a few minutes. Once it runs clear, this is an indication that the sand had been freed of all trapped particles.

After a backwash, the multiport valve should be set to rinse and the pump allowed to run for 30seconds or so to allow the sand bed to settle. The rinse position on the multiport valve also sends water direct to the drain.

The laterals in the base of the filter have small slits in that allow water to pass through but not sand.

If these laterals fail, which they may well do after time, the sand will start to be passed into the pool.

The sand filter will need to be emptied and the laterals replaces, and we would also recommend that new sand is installed once the filter has been washed out.

Replacing the sand is also a way to ensure that a filter is operating at its maximum efficiency.

As an alternative to a sand change, filter media can be cleaned using a filter cleaner product. Blue Horizons Filter Cleaner is a powerful cleaner that removes oils and greases from sand filters and quickly restores the filter efficiency.

The 1ltr bottle is an easy to apply liquid. 500ml will treat a 24” filter vessel.

Regular backwashing is essential to not only keep the filter media clear of debris but to also fluidise the sand bed and effectively reset it. Water will always look to take the line of least resistance and will channel through the sand over time and form tracks, cracks and channels. When it does this it is not being filtered and other parts of the sand bed are not subject to sufficient flow and can often become clogged with debris and bacteria can form and biofouling can occur.

To prevent this:
- Backwash regularly (weekly) during the swimming season
- Shock the pool water after heavy use
- Check sanitiser levels daily to ensure that there are always sufficient levels in the water
- Either clean sand media yearly
- Change sand media every 2-4 years

Why Is My Water Cloudy?
Cloudy or milky swimming pool water can be caused because of several issues, either individually or together. These are:
- Improper levels of sanitising agent
- Imbalanced (high) pH total alkalinity levels
- Very high calcium hardness levels
- Faulty or dirty / clogged filter
- Early stages of algae formation
- Build-up of bather wastes
- Physical debris in the pool
We will explain the ways to clear that cloudy water and get your clear healthy pool water back.
1. Establish and maintain free chlorine levels
2. Shock dose the pool
3. Monitor and balance pH and total alkalinity and calcium hardness levels
4. Backwash filter or replace / clean filter media
5. Remove foreign particles from the pool
6. Use an algaecide
7. Test the water regularly
8. Establish and maintain free chlorine levels
Start by taking a free chlorine reading of the pool water by using a suitable test kit and a DPD1 Test Tablet. Ideally, once the free chlorine level has been taken, the total chlorine level would be taken using a DPD3 Test Tablet. Using these two results we can then establish the level of combined chlorine in the pool water.

If you do not have the necessary, test equipment to establish these levels then you can either take a sample of water to your local dealer.

Combined chlorine is the “used” chlorine that has already reacted with bather wastes and contamination. The combined chlorine levels are calculated by subtracting the free chlorine levels from the total chlorine level:

Total chlorine – free chlorine = combined chlorine.

(Combined chlorine should be no more than half that of the free chlorine level)

Firstly, the free chlorine level should be between 1.0mg/l (ppm) and 3.0mg/l (ppm).

If this is not the case, and the chlorine level is below the lower level then the free chlorine level needs to be increased to between the above ranges and closely monitored to ensure that it remains stable.

It is possible that pools that show no chlorine residual may have a “chlorine demand” and that a certain amount of chlorine is required to satisfy that demand before a stable reading can be achieved.

If there is no chlorine present, then bacteria can survive and multiply in the water and it will become cloudy.
1. Shock Dose
Why do you need to shock a pool?

Pools are shocked to remove combined chlorine, as mentioned above, from the water. Pools are also shocked to remove excess bather waste and bacteria after heavy pool use, or for the removal of visible algae in the water. Bromine treated pools and spas also use pool shock to reactivate bromide ions in the water.

By using Blue Horizons rapid Shock

There are really 3 main reasons to shock a pool or spa, raising the Free Chlorine level high enough (10-20 mg/l or ppm) to oxidize or destroy the offending contaminants. These could be called the A-B-Cs of Pool Shock.

Algae:

Green, yellow, pink or black, the best algaecide is chlorine, and lots of it. Pool algae growth can be controlled with algaecide, but to kill algae and clear the pool, we use pool shock.

Be sure that the pH is adjusted to 7.2 – 7.6 range, the lower the pH the more efficient the chlorine is and the more potent the shock process is.

Depending on the severity of the algae, 10-30 ppm could be needed to kill active algae blooms.

Bacteria & Bather Waste:

Bacteria can enter the pool from many sources, most of it harmless variety, however pathogenic bacteria may also exist. Use chlorine shock to remove bacteria after heavy pool use, rain fall, particularly thunderstorms, summer opening or for swimmer accidents.

Bather waste includes skin, hair, skincare products, massage oils, hair gel, cosmetics and soaps, fake tan, suntan lotion as well as sweat, urine, faeces and fungus.

Chloramines, Contaminants, Cloudy Water:

Combined chlorine molecules are responsible for that “pool smell’ a strong chlorine-like smell that is produced when chlorine has reacted and become bound to any organic matter.

When Chloramine levels are more than half that of the free chlorine, the smell can be present. This indicates water that is in a poor condition.

OTHER TIMES TO USE POOL SHOCK

Shocking the pool also removes organic contaminants from dirt, leaves and air pollution. There is a lot of harmless matter that gets into a pool and gets in the way of water balance and sanitation. Cloudy water can often be corrected by shock dosing the pool, or by adding non-chlorine oxidizer, to destroy the colloidal particles that cause cloudy water.

In short, for best results, use Chlorine Shock for Algae and Bacteria removal, and use Non-Chlorine Shock for Chloramine and Contaminant removal and treatment of Cloudy Water.

Heavy Rain:

Rain is pure water, distilled by evaporation, but as it falls through the air, it picks up airborne particles that wash into your pool. Air pollution, dust, pollen, algae spores can discolour the water, consume your chlorine, and affect water chemistry. During heavy storms, overhanging trees, overflowing planters or lawn areas next to the pool can wash in soil laden with bacteria and phosphates, in addition to of tree and plant debris.
1. Monitor and balance the pH, total alkalinity, and calcium hardness levels
By keeping your pool within certain chemical parameters will “balance” the pool water.

The parameters that are required to determine if the water is balanced or not are:
- pH
- Temperature
- Total Alkalinity
- Calcium Hardness
- TDS
By using the necessary test kit and an easy-to-use balanced water app, like the Lovibond pool M8, an overall reading can be obtained. This is called the Langelier Saturation Index.
- A zero value indicates that water is in perfect balance and is neither scale forming or corrosive
- A negative value indicates that water is corrosive
- A positive value indicates that water is scale forming
- It is advisable to aim for a slightly positive value.
If any of the values are high, then they will tend to make the pool water more likely to be cloudy.

A weekly balanced water test will help you to always ensure that your water is in perfect condition.

Corrosive water will, over time, erode the grout in tiled pools, while scale forming water will tend to lay down scale that could affect filter and heater performance.
1. Backwash filter or replace / clean sand filter media
It is true to say that almost every domestic swimming pool, in the UK will have a filter vessel with sand media, although some may have glass.

Swimming pool filter sand is a specific type, it is referred to as 16/30 grade silica sand. It comes from ground quartz, which creates sharp silica grains with jagged edges excellent for trapping particulates from passing water.

Silica sand is mined product as opposed to being manufactured.

Under a microscope the sand looks like a pile of bricks, with cavities between the bricks. These cavities in the sand filter are where particles are trapped.

If the filter isn’t operating efficiently then this could contribute to cloudy water.
1. Use an algaecide
By using an algaecide any potential algae growth will be kept at bay and will prevent your pol form becoming cloudy.

The below can be used as a guide to help select the right product for you.
1. Test the water regularly
By testing the water on a regular basis, it will be easier to see changes in the water chemistry.

Using a good quality test kit is essential and there are various options available to suit all budgets.

The most basic would be a pool tester:

These types of test kit are inexpensive and vary accurate because they utilise DPD1 and Phenol red tablet reagents for free chlorine for pH levels respectively.

These reagents are recognised as being able to provide repeatable accuracy that cannot be guaranteed with other methods.

Comparators are like the pool test kits in that they rely on the human eye to make a colour comparison between two colours, and they offer a wider range of tests that include:
- Free chlorine (DPD1)
- Total chlorine (DPD3)
- pH (Phenol Red)
- Total alkalinity
- Calcium Hardness
The next step is to move to a photometer.

This is an electronic device that uses an internal light source that is refracted through a prism and shone through the coloured water sample to derive a reading via an optical sensor.

There are various types of photometers that can test either 3, 4, 6, 10 or even 25 different parameters.

For a domestic outdoor pool, a unit that can test for chlorine, pH and cyanuric acid would be a basic requirement, however, a unit that can also test for total alkalinity and calcium hardness would be advantageous.

By ensuring that all of the above are in order you will achieve sparkling clear safe and clean water at all times.

Additional products that can help you to keep on top of your pool maintenance are – tile and liner cleaners to keep the waterline free from a scum / tide mark, such as:

Blue Horizons Tile & Liner Cleaner, Waterline Cleaning Paste and Extra Thick Tile & Liner Cleaner

Clarifiers to ensure perfect water clarity:

JelleyCLEAR Cubes, Aqua Sparkle Tabs, ClearFAST Aqua Sachets, Flocfix Cartridges, Rapid Liquid Floc and Ultimate Water Clarity Concentrate

Speciality products

Ultimate Phos Granules or Concentrated Phos Away to remove the food source for algae.

How Do I Keep My Paddling Pool Water In A Safe Condition?

How to keep your paddling pool water in safe condition – free from bacteria and algae?

Freshly filled paddling pools are generally safe, but given that water is now considered a precious resource its wasteful to constantly drain down and refill paddling pools, and there’s certainly no need to do this.

After filling your paddling pool with clean tap water, dose the required amount of Ultimate Paddlecare Algae Protector as per the sachet instructions, followed by the required number of Ultimate Paddlecare Super Fizz Sanitiser Tablets. Gently swirl the paddling pool water after product application for an even distribution.

Ultimate Paddlecare Algae Protector will prevent algae formation and/or destroy algae spores that enter the paddling pool, ensuring slimy/green algae is kept at bay. However, Ultimate Paddlecare Algae Protector is not a bactericide or general bacteria killer. Additional use of Ultimate Paddlecare Super Fizz Sanitiser Tablets, which is a chlorine bactericide, will destroy any harmful bacteria that enters the paddling pool from bathers and/or the external environment.

Dosing

Use pack instructions for dosing guides but as a general guide: Use one sachet of Ultimate Paddlecare Algae Protector per 300 litres (66 gallons) of pool water. Redose as above on refill of paddling pool. Use one Ultimate Paddlecare Super Fizz Sanitiser Tablet to achieve 3.3 mg/l (ppm) chlorine per 300 litres (66 gallons) of pool water, where the desired range is 2 – 5 mg/l (ppm). Dose every other day. Test your chlorine levels using Ultimate Paddlecare 3 Way Dip Tests. Using Ultimate Paddlecare 3 Way Dip Tests you are able to quickly and accurately assess your paddling pool conditions. Follow the test pack instructions ensuring you hold the strips level to avoid ink pads mixing. The free chlorine levels are critical in paddling pools as this is the sanitiser level for bacteria control. pH is essential for bather comfort but will rarely require remedy as the water is changed frequently. The Total alkalinity reading is not required for paddling pools.

Refilling/cleaning and maintenance

Drain and refill your paddling pool weekly or when contamination (e.g. grass) has become excessive. Thoroughly wash down pool before refilling.

Typical Paddling Pool Volumes

Guide To Winterising

Preparing Your Pool For Winter

At the end of the outdoor swimming season, some simple procedures can ensure pool equipment protection is maximised and that water stays in reasonable condition; making it easier to open next spring.

If you are confident and have the desire, then winterising your own pool is an option, otherwise your Blue Horizons pool dealer will usually offer a full winterising service.

Some of the things that need to be done prior to winterising include:

Remove solar cover, clean and pack it away carefully before storing it away. Store away from mice zones!

In soft water areas especially, a re-check and balance of the calcium hardness levels to the minimum 200ppm zone will ensure the pool structure is fully protected.

Check the pH level and raise to 7.6 – 7.8, slightly higher than normal level

Winterising Your Pool Procedure

For Pools fitted with a main drain.

Lower the water level in the pool to approx. 150 – 200mm below the skimmer mouth ‘opening’ on the pool. The close the valve for the skimmer(s) on the plant room filter to avoid air suction via the skimmer and so water is drawn from the main drain only. Add your winterising chemicals whist the circulation is still running for product distribution.

For pools without a main drain

Add your winterising chemicals prior to draining down but whilst the circulation is running for product distribution. Then lower the water level in the pool to approximately 150 – 200mm below the skimmer mouth ‘opening’ on the pool.

Chemical Treatments Shock Treatment

Before adding your winteriser, shock treat the pool with Chlorine to ensure all organic pollution, which in turn is food for algae, is removed to give your winter algaecide the best possible start. Keep your circulation system on for chemical distribution as per the previous section.

Add 10 mg/litre (ppm) shock dose using Blue Horizons Granular or Blue Horizons Rapid Shock
Add your chosen winteriser

	Dose rates for 10ppm
	5000 Gallons (22,700 Litres)	10,000 Gallons (45,450)
BH Granular Shock	350gm	700gm
BH Rapid Shock	325gm	650gm

Winterising With Longer Lasting Algaecides

Blue Horizons Ultimate Wintertime (5 Litres)

Non-copper based algaecide with sequestrant, for the control for most types of algae, together with the prevention of staining and scale formation. Wide product compatibility including Chlorine, Bromine and Biguanide treated pools. Tolerant to pH range fluctuation.

	Winter Dose Rates
Water Volumes
Litres	Gallons	Algae Prevention
4,546	1000	0.3ltr
11,365	2500	0.8ltr
22,730	5000	1.7ltr
45,460	10,000	3.3ltr
68,190	15,000	5.0ltr

Blue Horizons AlgiMAX Eliminator (1 and 2 litres)

This dual-action algaecide combines both copper and non-copper and is a highly effective algae control product. It does not contain sequestrants for stain and scale control but is pH tolerant. Avoid using with copper/silver devices or any biguanide treated pools.

	Winter Dose Rates
Water Volumes
Litres	Gallons	Initial or Winteriser Dose	Top up (3 months)
4,546	1000	0.3ltr	50ml
11,365	2500	0.8ltr	125ml
22,730	5000	1.7ltr	250ml
45,460	10,000	3.3ltr	500ml
68,190	15,000	5.0ltr	750ml

Concentrated Wintertime (1 litre)

Non-copper based algaecide for the control of most types of algae. Wide product compatibility including Chlorine, Bromine and Biguanide treated pools. Tolerant to pH range fluctuation and ultra-concentrated for ease of storage. 1ltr will treat up to 12,000 gallons.

	Winter Dose Rates
Water Volumes
Litres	Gallons	Algae Prevention
4546	1000	85ml
11,365	2500	210ml
22,730	5000	415ml
45,460	10,000	830ml
68,190	15,000	1.25ltr

NB: 1 litre bottle treats 12,000 gallons (54,553 litres)

Kleen Pool Long life Algaecide (1 litre)

Leading brand copper-based algaecide for the control of algae. Does not contain sequestrants and can be pH sensitive. Avoid using with copper/silver devices or any biguanide treated pools.

	Winter Dose Rates
Water Volumes
Litres	Gallons	6 Monthly Dose Rates
6,820	1,500	250ml
14,100	3,100	500ml
28,200	6,200	1.0ltr
56,375	12,400	2.0ltr

NB: 1 litre bottle treats 6,200 gallons (28,173 litres)

And finally…. after adding your winteriser – avoiding frost damage:

Place bungs/stoppers into the water outlets to prevent rainwater entering the pipes.
In the plant room, open the valve for the skimmer(s) and run the pump briefly for a few seconds only, to clear the skimmer pipelines of water.
Turn the filtration system off.
Drain down the pump, filter and heater as per the manufacture’s instructions.
Disconnect the pipe work from the pump. If your plant room is subject to freezing or condensation/damp conditions, then remove the pump to a warm dry place.

Other useful winterising tips

Outdoor pools that suffer major water dilution may benefit from the addition of a pre-filled chlorine floating dispenser, set at the ‘low’ setting. This gives a chlorine output to the pool, taking pressure off your winterisation algaecide.
Float a couple of items in the pool, such as weighted old chemical containers (use small stones in the bottom to partially submerge). By submerging such floats this will take the pressure off the pool sides when and if ice forms.
Also put an old weighted small chemical container in the skimmer, even though initially the skimmer will be clean of water. As the rainwater builds up the skimmer may fill and this will help relieve the pressure off the skimmer when and if ice subsequently forms.
Fit your winter debris cover, to keep leaves and wind debris out of the pool during the closed periods. If you do not have a winter debris cover remove leave and debris when the pool is frost free.
Top up your winterising fluid after 3 months, particularly after periods of heavy prolonged rain and if not using pre-filled floating chlorine tablet dispenser. Consider shock treating with chlorine to 5mg/litre (ppm) every 2 months and using chemicals under shock treatments. Note this is only half the dose recommended for pre-winterising treatment.